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Donegal People’s Press - Wednesday 27th September 1995
“A MACINTYRE IN PARIS”
SAMPLING A FRENCH FLANN
Paris in September and a famous landmark stands as another splendid example of this remarkable city. Pictures hang on its musty walls and there’s a hum of anticipation among its visitors as they enter the hallowed establishment. Nearby the traffic on the Rue de Louvre seems a million miles away. It can only be one place- a building that has established itself as one of the Mecca’s of Parisian life. Where else but the Flann O’Brien public house….? Nestled in the quiet sideway of the Rue Bailleul, this premise houses a distinctive Irish flavour and, well, why wouldn’t it? Isn’t its proprietor a Strabane man – one Jamesie MacIntyre who can boast a whole host of relations in the Letterkenny area and other parts of Donegal? On the evening when the “Donegal People’s Press” paid a thirsty courtesy call, the man himself was absent but the friendly bar assistant informed us that he would be along later. Meanwhile there was nothing for it but to sample some of the beverages contained therein. Not unnaturally, Sir Arthur’s brew, - this being an Irish pub after all- is a popular choice for both the homesick travellers and locals alike. Hanging like the Mona Lisa on the wall is a tell-tale sign that this is a bar with true Letterkenny connections – a genuine “Gerard Mc Fadden & Sons” of Breenagh, calendar the like of which the nearby Louvre would be proud to own. At half past six it’s quiet but gradually the venue begins to fill up with Irish accents mingling with French, German and English voices. At around eight o’clock they are joined by a Strabane accent. Proprietor Jamesie has arrived but he’s scheduled to go out again for a prearranged meal with a group of other revellers. Nevertheless, this affable member of the MacIntyre clan has time to sit and talk of his life in Paris and the folk back home. Mutual names roll off the tongue as the Flann O’Brien- not for the first time- reverberates to the stories and personalities back on the “auld sod”.
GENEROUS HOST Ever the generous host, Jamesie provides further additions to the visiting alcohol count but an invitation to join the meal-goers has to be turned down- principally on the grounds that an early flight must be caught the following morning and over-indulgence could make it an unsettling journey home. Having lived and worked in the French capital for the past fifteen years, James loves every “jour” of it. But he doesn’t intend spending forever there. “I’d like to return home at some stage” he says. For the meantime his pub provides a real home from home for those who miss the comforts, not to mention the Guinness of Irish life. It’s not the only such establishment in Paris of course. The Forum des Halles is an architectural nightmare –unusual for a city which prides itself on its building and boulevards- which provides accommodation for countless shops in an ugly mass of concrete and glass that appears to go on forever. Even finding a toilet in it is a challenge for the thousands who cram into floor upon floor of fortified foyers. The only good aspect of it is that there are exits to be reached and through one of these you come out and can on any clear day- or bon jour- catch a sighting of Quigley’s Point! You read it right. Quigley’s Point and nothing less. It’s another of the Irish public houses- this one run by one J. Quigley, a Derryman, on the Rue de Jour. Again a unique Irish style atmosphere prevailed and the mixture of clientele bears the testimony to its popularity. Throw in a barman who joins in almost all the songs of the jukebox and you have an idea of what to expect. On a Saturday afternoon there’s a real hustle and bustle about the place and for sports fans, SKY television brings you up to the minute news on events back home- including the latest in English and Scottish soccer- on the box in the corner. Another Irish establishment is the James Joyce but apart from passing it in a bus the “Donegal People’s Press ”was unable to pay it a visit, given that apparently there are other places to see in Paris. Back in the Flann O’Brien – the frequent haunt of the Plain People of Ireland- the Irish regulars prepared for the following days All Ireland Final between Tyrone and Dublin, which was to be beamed from Croke Park. Fortunately we weren’t there to witness the untold anguish of its proprietor as the final whistle blew but doubtless it hung on the in Seine.
Jamesie MacIntyre (email address to follow)
Flann O’Brien: Quotations
Flann O'Brien Irish Pub Photo Memories (1987-2002) - "Original and Best Irish Pub in Paris." A good site by good lad
Paul Lynch
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